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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.